Item No. 2 missing from the Oxford American’s Mississippi
Music Issue: Hill Country Blues.
The “hill country” is a different place from the Delta. Not because it is poorer, because it isn’t;
not because the geography is different, with rolling hills and hollers as
opposed to flats and rows upon rows of Delta snow; but because the people are
simply a different sort. Alan Lomax
described it like this:
“The Hill people, living on poorer land and more
old-fashioned in their ways, look with a combination of envy and fear on the
restless, pioneering Delta. As they move
into the Delta, the Hill folk fertilize it with their richer, more traditional
culture.”
I can’t altogether accept Lomax’s judgment; in my
experience, I never saw much envy in any one of the Delta – that is, with the
exception of blues-smitten white boys.
But the fear of the outside, of innovation, of change, and the
stubbornness are qualities that ring true.
Bob Palmer, in the liner notes to R.L. Burnside’s first real
record, Too Bad Jim, described the
Hill Country like this:
“The North-Mississippi hill country R.L. Burnside calls home
is not at all the same proposition as the Mississippi Delta, with which it is
often confused. The Delta runs along
both sides of the Mississippi River and is flat, alluvial cotton land, owned by
a small number of white families who long ago divided it up into immense
plantation tracts. There are no big
plantations in the hill country of North Mississippi, just small farms, many of
them owned by black families for several generations. Back up in those wooded hills, communities
still experience an isolation no longer encountered in the Delta, where many of
the black families who worked the plantations long ago were replaced by
mechanized agriculture. In much of the
hill country, farming is still a matter of plows and mules. Localized dialects and vocabulary are still
prevalent, often so thick and idiosyncratic that Mississippians from a few
counties over can’t catch everything being said. The hills of northwest Mississippi have their
own culture, and of course their own music, both equally individual and
resilient.”
This description is more to my taste, and more reflective of
my experience. And if there is one
phrase that really sums it up, it’s Palmer’s use of “an isolation.” Not just any isolation, as the Delta is, in
many respects, as isolated as anywhere in the south. Where else can you stand in the midst of a
laser-leveled cotton field – an expensive accomplishment – and see places that
exist in song but have yet to find their way onto a map? But everyone knows about “the Delta
Blues.” Everyone knows about the
crossroads, even if no one knows which crossroads, or where. Everyone knows that W.C. Handy heard those
first mournful blue notes while he was waiting on a train in Tutwiler,
Mississippi. Everyone knows about
Leadbelly and Parchman Farm and the Midnight Special.
But what of the Hill Country? Even though it produced perhaps the most
single most famous song and dance man in the world, we accept Elvis as being
from Tupelo, and not the hills of North Mississippi. This is the product of not just isolation,
but of “an isolation” that persists to this day. And this isolation persists, as evidenced by
the absence of Mississippi Fred McDowell, Junior Kimbrough, and, of course,
R.L. Burnside from the CD of Mississippi music that is companion to the Oxford
American’s Southern Music Issue.
It is, once again, the Summer of 1999. I made my pilgrimage from Davis, California
to Jackson, Mississippi with three CDs in constant rotation in my big blue
truck – Blonde on Blonde, the first
Son Volt record, Trace, and A Ass Pocket of Whiskey by R.L.
Burnside. (As the summer progressed, I
would add the newly released Mule Variations
by Tom Waits to this mix.)
Having been to Parchman Farm, and Clarksdale, and Rolling
Fork (only to find that Muddy’s cabin was inexplicably “on tour” with ZZ Top),
I resolved that it was time to dispense with the nostalgia. I believed that blues was a living, breathing
music (a belief I continue to hold) and resolved to find me a living, breathing
bluesman. It was time to find R.L.
I planned the trip for a week, though, candidly, little
planning was required – a full tank of gas and a trip to the package store for
a half-gallon of Jack Daniels.
And on Saturday I turned my big blue truck north to the hill
country, to Holly Springs, to find R.L. Burnside.
Interstate 55 to Senatobia, and then cut across, through
Chulaholma (and, unknowingly, past Junior Kimbrough’s juke) and into Holly
Springs, where I had read that R.L. lived.
To a service station, the type that is more or less unique to the south
– a convenience store plus fryer and hot counter – and a handful of booths and
tables. Not the sort of place where your
wife will want to use the facilities.
And a group of older black men, farmers, yellow eyes, smoking, drinking
coffee, mesh back caps and overalls. No
time for me. Take the road north, I was
told. When you see them dogs you
arrived.
I still find the precision embodied in these directions
remarkable. But there they were, a pack
of mongrel dogs on the right, every bit as effective as a house number. And these were terrible dogs, mangy and angry
and mean and raising a right proper racket.
The product, most certainly, of an isolation.
I killed the engine and left the whiskey in the truck. Looking back on the misadventure that would
very shortly unfold, I judge that, along with my cowardice, as my undoing.
In any event, there was a lot of ground to cover between the
gate and the porch, and I’m wondering what to do about the dogs. But it didn’t matter. The screen door, dirty white frame and
hanging askew, is opening. R.L. stepping
out. R.L. stepping out holding a
rifle. R.L. letting the screen door slam shut. R.L. letting two rounds into the air.
And I got the fuck out of there.
Not long after that I read an interview with R.L. and Jon
Spencer. “R.L.,” the interviewer asked,
“do the young white kids ever come visit you?”
“Well, well, well,” R.L. answered, “They do, but they get scared and run
away when I shoot off my gun.”
